Modern-day pyramids

We hadn’t read much about Gyeongju before arriving, but perhaps even if we had, we would not have been prepared for the sight of the 4^th century Shilla burial mounds that rise like sentinels out of the Gyeongju landscape. Beautiful and eerie, it’s like stumbling into a Lewis Carroll poem… Built by piling rocks up to 22 meters high and packing dirt on top, they store the remains of Shilla monarchs and their families. Obviously grassy hillocks are a bit more subtle than pyramids rising from the starkness of the desert, but certainly they deserve a little more attention!

We also explored the beautiful Bulgak-sa temple, reputedly one of the best examples of Shilla architecture although, admittedly, we were more intrigued by the mysterious stacks of rocks near one of the shrines than the intricate woodwork.

If only our food explorations in Gyeongju were so grand… We attempted to find a Korean BBQ place recommended by our Norwegian sunmudo teacher but, having only vague directions and no name (as if we could read one anyway), it was a hopeless cause. Luckily, the Pizza Hut we spotted on our long search was still open (and packed with people). Americanization saves the day!

How to run a Love Motel

Like technology for Japan, South Korea is at least five years ahead of the US with its own titillating industry: love motels. They’re everywhere. We found one near the Gyeongju bus station (naturally) that came recommended by LP and Tia is threatening to move in for good. Here's why:

1.  Popcorn machine in the lobby

2.  Dark glass reception window painted with a lascivious pixie and a small hole at the bottom where you duck your head to ask for a room (yes, they seem surprised when you want to stay a whole night -- yes, a whole night -- yes, for sleeping)

3.  Profound, nonsensical quotes on the hallway walls (e.g. “A life without love, without the presence of / the beloved, is nothing but a mere magic-lantern show”)

4.  Suite with magic-castle-in-the-forest theme

5.  Free bottle of Korean port

6.  Mirrors on the ceiling (obviously)

7.  Mood lighting, e.g. glittered ball on bathroom ceiling softly changing colors

8.  Complete array of free men’s products: after shave, cologne, hair spray, facial cleanser, condoms, shoe horn

9.  Heated toilet seat with special spray settings for women

10.  Full hair product suite for women – Vidal Sassoon shampoo and conditioner, hair dryer, round brush, hair spray, smoothing gel, spare hair elastics, etc.

11.  Enormous flat screen TV with all sorts of channels (wink, wink)

12.  Full spa bathtub with two headrests and accompanying hot pink bath salts

13.  Loads of other free stuff!

The place screams of sketchiness and class at the same time (the numbers for hookers on the outside door make it lean more toward the former).  Still, after a few days of sleeping on floors, this is perhaps the best $55/night we have ever spent.